Read an interesting post at Chocolate Alchemy today that insisted that the reason that Criollo tastes the way that it does is that it is low in phenols. These are bitter tasting chemicals that are also used as a defense mechanism by the plant to ward off disease and pests. Less phenols, less disease resistance, but also a better tasting product. This makes a happy kind of sense and explains why Foresteros are so much easier to grow.
I’ve also found a place to get the canonical text on cacao biology. It appears that I can use interlibrary loan to get it to the Mountain View library. Time to get this process started!